Journey to Big Bluff

First posted on 02-11-2010

Note: Click on any of the photos to open a larger view in a lightbox.

Last fall, I got a chance to hike the trail to Big Bluff in the Ponca Wilderness Area in northern Arkansas. Despite living in the Ozarks for many years, it was my first venture along trails in the upper Buffalo River region, but it will certainly not be my last visit.

There are incredible mountains in this part of the state, some of the tallest in Arkansas and the scenery does not disappoint.

I began the journey at the Centerpoint trailhead which is on Highway 43 just about halfway between Compton and Ponca. The trailhead is clearly marked on the east side of the road just across from horse stables and I found a small gravel lot for parking.

The trail started out wide with an easy slope. Recent rains had left behind some wet springs and water dripped lazily from rock shelves along the hillside. A small creek passed underneath the trail and the view of the mountains to my right were enough to make me smile, even as I think about them today.

The trail was a long descent and it got rough and rocky a short way down. The descent to the Goat Trail, which takes the hiker on the final leg to Big Bluff, was about 2 1/2 miles and that meant one thing for sure - the trip back was all uphill. If you decide to try this hike, remember to bring along plenty of water and extra snacks for energy. You’ll need them!

There was a very rough, rocky and muddy patch a mile or so down the trail. Later, I found out why. There was a low spot where water crossed the trail and the path had been beaten down hard by horses on a trail ride from those stables across the road from the trailhead.

The path got extremely narrow as I wound through the woods and it seemed I might never get to the bluff. In fact, I started to forget why I’d come all that way, but I decided to stay with it lest I miss out on some million dollar views I had heard about.

Finally, after a couple of miles of downhill hiking on a moderately difficult trail with beautiful views of hills, valleys and woods, the trail climbed gently to a large open area. A sizeable campfire ring was visible to my left and an orange mark on a tree indicated the start of the Goat Trail.

Continuing on the main trail would eventually lead to Hemmed in Hollow, a spectacular waterfall with a huge drop. But that was another hike of a couple more downhill miles and I had come to witness the grandeur of Big Bluff so I headed down the narrow, rocky, winding Goat Trail.

Not far down this trail, a large rock wall appeared on my left, the start of a bluff. Just a few more steps down, the scent of pines and the first views of the mountains were striking. After that, each new step brought its own unique view of the mountains, valleys and the winding Buffalo River, and each of those views was more spectacular than the one before.

I stopped for lunch under a rock overhang and simply breathed in the scenery. Vultures glided along wind currents a few feet away from me as I sat munching on a sandwich 300 feet or more above the valley floor.

Lunch consumed and all my trash stowed away in my pack for proper disposal off the trail, I crawled through a hole in a rock wall and walked further along the bluff. The scenes continued to get even more impressive and breathtaking.

But a word of caution is warranted. The drop to the river below is sheer, the pathway narrow and there are no guard rails. A fall would assuredly be fatal so this is not a place for young children or inexperienced hikers.

I took several photos and those are available for viewing in the Travel section of the freshare photo gallery. I hated to leave but the day was getting late and there was still that long climb back awaiting me. I made sure I left no litter behind, packed up my camera gear and headed back toward the parking area, a long journey but with the views of Big Bluff still in my eyes.

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